Monitor Calibration. (2025)

Hi, I'm having a problem editing photo's in Lightroom. I use two different monitors, one at work that is a laptop with a separate 4k.
The other at home which is just a built in screen on a 17 inch MSI.

The issue is that even though I've run the onboard Windows calibration, the difference in colour is really noticeable between the two.

I've been looking at buying a calibration device, but as an amateur/hobbyist don't want to spend a fortune. The one that has caught my eye is Datacolor SpyderX Pro.
Having read very mixed reviews I was hoping you could give me your thoughts.

Thanks.

Chris 51 said:

Hi, I'm having a problem editing photo's in Lightroom. I use two different monitors, one at work that is a laptop with a separate 4k.
The other at home which is just a built in screen on a 17 inch MSI.

The issue is that even though I've run the onboard Windows calibration, the difference in colour is really noticeable between the two.

I've been looking at buying a calibration device, but as an amateur/hobbyist don't want to spend a fortune. The one that has caught my eye is Datacolor SpyderX Pro.
Having read very mixed reviews I was hoping you could give me your thoughts.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Hi
I have a Spyder 5 pro and could not get both my Dell monitor to be the day. Purchased a i1 display pro and had better results.

I use a Spyder 3 Pro but now use the free Display Cal Software as the spyder 3 software does not run on Windows 10. I use two Dell monitors and calibrate both. You have reminded me that they are now overdue for re-calibration; must do that this evening.

Dave

Ok thanks very much for the replies. I'm using Windows 10 on both computers so it seems the Spyder software won't work? I find this a little odd!

So just to confirm, I would need to buy either the pro or elite which seems a little cheaper on Amazon and run it with Displaycal which is a free download.

Will give it a go. Hopefully will help as the colours of the subjects and the fact that the photos are shot through glass with strange lighting are challenging.

Chris 51 said:

Ok thanks very much for the replies. I'm using Windows 10 on both computers so it seems the Spyder software won't work? I find this a little odd!

So just to confirm, I would need to buy either the pro or elite which seems a little cheaper on Amazon and run it with Displaycal which is a free download.

Will give it a go. Hopefully will help as the colours of the subjects and the fact that the photos are shot through glass with strange lighting are challenging.

Click to expand...

Nearly but not quite.
The software that came with the Spyder 3 colourimeter does not work with Win 10 .
The Spyder 3 colourimeter does work with Display Cal in Win 10, so if you buy a new Spyder it will work with Win 10 and the new supplied software.
What people are doing is using their old Spyder 3 Colourimeters with Display Cal.
Personally before I went out and spent money , take your Home m/c to work and try to manually adjust the monitor settings so they look the same.
If it works , fine ,if not then try a colourimeter.

troutfisher said:

Nearly but not quite.
The software that came with the Spyder 3 colourimeter does not work with Win 10 .
The Spyder 3 colourimeter does work with Display Cal in Win 10, so if you buy a new Spyder it will work with Win 10 and the new supplied software.
What people are doing is using their old Spyder 3 Colourimeters with Display Cal.
Personally before I went out and spent money , take your Home m/c to work and try to manually adjust the monitor settings so they look the same.
If it works , fine ,if not then try a colourimeter.

Click to expand...

Ok I see, I did think it was odd that the software wouldn't work with windows 10.

I could take the one from home to work and match them. Problem is I still wouldn't know the colour was good for everyone else, ie correct.
Thanks for the reply.

Chris 51 said:

I could take the one from home to work and match them. Problem is I still wouldn't know the colour was good for everyone else, ie correct.
Thanks for the reply.

Click to expand...

Unless other people are looking at them on a calibrated monitor using the same colour space as you then they will never look " correct ".
Most people will view them on an uncalibrated phone/tablet /TV and it is highly unlikely that they will know one way or another.
I used to be anal about calibrating my monitor(s) then my Spyder gave up the ghost so I stopped and nobody has complained about my photos being the wrong colour yet.

troutfisher said:

Unless other people are looking at them on a calibrated monitor using the same colour space as you then they will never look " correct ".
Most people will view them on an uncalibrated phone/tablet /TV and it is highly unlikely that they will know one way or another.
I used to be anal about calibrating my monitor(s) then my Spyder gave up the ghost so I stopped and nobody has complained about my photos being the wrong colour yet.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reassurance, I suppose I am being a bit anal about it. It's just a bit un nerving when I edit something at work then it looks crap when I look at it on the home laptop.

troutfisher said:

Unless other people are looking at them on a calibrated monitor using the same colour space as you then they will never look " correct ".
Most people will view them on an uncalibrated phone/tablet /TV and it is highly unlikely that they will know one way or another.
I used to be anal about calibrating my monitor(s) then my Spyder gave up the ghost so I stopped and nobody has complained about my photos being the wrong colour yet.

Click to expand...

I suppose it's how you view taking ownership - as the photographer, I'd like to think that I did my best to deliver a 'calibrated' set of images. At least then, when someone says, the colours a little dull or too red / green / blue (take your pick) I can say I've calibrated my screen have you?

dkh said:

On the flip - why not just take JPGs rather than RAW. Main benefit I saw of taking RAW photos was the ability to edit including setting up different types of colour profiles and styles (retro faded or muted) for example.

Click to expand...

I used to do this but struggle to get Jpegs right all the time. The fact that most of my photo's are taken under 16-20k lighting through glass doesn't help.

Just to update this thread.
Spyder X arrived yesterday from Amazon. Found it extremely easy to use and straightforward.

Both monitors now calibrated and certainly look different. Will let you know how I get on going from one to the other.